The 1993-96 Ford Probe is an excellent platform for high performance
mobile audio installation. Simplicity in design and adequate room,
allow for both the novice or the professional to install a wide
variety equipment. The following Frequently Asked Questions are
presented as a reference aide those with questions concerning
these models. While every effort was used to ensure the validity
of the below information, it is the responsibility of the installer
to verify that the vehicle in question does adhere to the same
specifications as the one used below. Any questions or comments
are encouraged. If you are having difficulty in reading this document
this please feel free to download the latest version of Netscape
.
Agent009@autospies.com
1. What type of audio systems came with 93-96 Probes?
2. How good is the factory radio?
3. How good is the factory amplifier?
4. What can I replace that will make the biggest improvement in sound quality?
5. How can I determine if my stereo is a premium system?
6. Can I upgrade a premium system or do I need to replace the entire system?
7. What type of speakers will fit in my Probe?
8. What about the subwoofer?
9. How do I replace the radio?
10. What about a power Antenna?
11. What type of wiring adapters are needed to install my new system?
12. When replacing the speakers, which wire is the positive lead?
13. What are the wiring codes for the factory amplifier?
What type of audio systems came with 93-96
Probes?
The 1993-96 Probe has basically three audio options from the factory.
The standard AM/FM radio, a premium AM/FM Cassette, or a premium
AM/FM CD Player. All of the systems power 4 speakers. The premium
systems have an external amplifier, and an optional seven band
equalizers. The CD system also utilizes a powered subwoofer.
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How good is the factory radio?
The standard AM/FM radio is of marginal quality. It suffices to
say that it can easily be upgraded with minimal investment. The
premium systems are of better design, and are actually approaching
the aftermarket in sound quality. The main reason to replace these
units are to go to a unit with more options thus giving you more
flexibility. The premium systems are full preamp models. That
is they do not have an onboard amplifier, and depend on a higher
quality external amplifier to amplify the signal. These models
require a replacement model with both front and rear preamp outputs,
to interface into the factory amplifier.
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How good is the factory amplifier?
The biggest weakness of the factory amplifier is lack of power
and an affinity to alternator noise. The estimated power of this
amplifier is about 12 watts per channel with less than 1% distortion.
The alternator noise can be eliminated with the addition of a
filter to the preamp input line, easily added when the radio is
installed. It can power a medium quality system, and deliver quite
acceptable performance. It is located under the passenger rear
speaker in the quarter panel and is secured with three bolts.
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What can I replace that will make the biggest
improvement in sound quality?
Without a doubt the speakers are the weakest link with these systems.
Followed then by the head unit, the external amplifier, and then
last the subwoofer (if so equipped).
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How can I determine if my stereo is a premium
system?
Most of the Probes came with the premium systems. Unless your
car is a 251A without the Group 3 option, then it is a premium
system. If it is a 251A without the Group 3 option, then it has
to have the premium system as an option on the window sticker.
All models equipped with an equalizer are premium systems. There
is a possibility the dealer could have installed a basic AM/FM
Cassette as a dealer installed option. But this would be an exception
rather than the rule.
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Can I upgrade a premium system or do I need
to replace the entire system?
You can upgrade the system piece by piece if you so wish. A variety
of low cost adapters are available to let you pick and choose
the components you would like to replace.
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What type of speakers will fit in my Probe?
The front speakers are 6 inch in diameter, and have a maximum
depth of 2½ inches. Ninety five percent of the 6 inch category
speakers will fit with no problem. Some 6½ inch speakers
will fit with minor trimming of the metal door panel. The rear
speakers are 6x8 inch. This category is very limited in selection
but with some of the over the counter adapters the following will
fit: 4, 4½, 5, 6, 6½, or 5x7 inch. Minor trimming of
metal will allow a 6x9 inch model to fit. Try to stick with a
high quality 2-way or 3-way speaker design to maximize the improvement
in sonic qualities.
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What about the subwoofer?
Due to the integrated amplifier design of the subwoofer it might
be better to just disconnect and replace it with another option
if you want to upgrade it. Believe it or not the rear speaker
locations have enough flat area to fit 10 inch woofers behind
the factory 6x8 inch locations. This would involve a lot of metal
cutting and the relocation of the factory amp, but it is a possibility
to those so inclined. Be sure to add insulation behind the speaker
to avoid a too boomy sound.
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How do I replace the radio?
The radio is held in place by two retaining clips on each side
of the unit. There is an aftermarket tool to remove it, however
four two penny nails inserted 1/4 inch into the provided holes
on the face plate will release the clips. The radio will then
slide out through the front of the console. The standard DIN opening
will house a variety of models of aftermarket units. One note
is that most of the aftermarket units have a rear support mounting
hole in the center rear of the radio. The factory radio has a
plastic adapter mounted on the back that places the support peg
at the top of the unit. Simply remove the bracket and mount it
to the rear of your new unit to retain the stock location of this
peg. Slide the unit back in making sure the rear support peg inserts
into the proper mounting location.
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What about a power Antenna?
An excellent example would be the Harada MXB22. This antenna will
replace the factory unit and utilize the under the fender hardware
that came on the factory antenna including the factory O-ring
seals. This hardware insures the antenna will be both perpendicular
and adequately secured as well. There is a 5 wire harness secured
to the fender bulkhead beside the antenna location. The functions
are listed below:
Antenna Wiring Harness Schematic
| Description | Function | Factory
Wire Color | Harada Wire Color | | Positive
Trigger Lead | Trigger Antenna Up | Green w/t Yellow
Stripe | Green |
|---|
| Unswitched
12 Volt + | Constant Power | Blue w/t Red Stripe
| Red |
|---|
| Switched 12 Volt +
| N/A | Blue w/t White Stripe | N/A |
|---|
| Ground
| N/A | Black w/t Yellow Stripe | N/A |
|---|
| Ground
| N/A | Black | N/A |
|---|
|
A 12 inch long piece of 5/8 inch tubing will be needed to extend
the drain tube and reach to the factory drain hole plug in the
bottom of the fender well. The factory antenna connector will
unplug from the base of the unit. A female to female adapter is
needed to connect the power antenna to the factory cable. Use
the supplied mounting bracket to secure the base of the new unit
and to ensure a good electrical ground.
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What type of wiring adapters are needed to
install my new system?
There are a variety of wiring adapters that apply to this model.
These adapters basically allow you to plug your aftermarket stereo
into the factory wiring harness. This is great for those that
do not want to cut into the factory wires. There are several manufactures
of these harnesses available from your local audio outlet. I will
give example model numbers from the Metra line of harnesses.
If the standard AM/FM radio is being replaced. Then standard Ford
wiring harness adapter will apply (70-1770). This is composed
of two adapters one for the power wires and the other is for the
speaker level outputs.
If a premium system is being replaced there are two options. You
need to determine if the factory amplifier will be utilized or
not.
If it is, then the premium sound wiring harness will apply (70-5511).
This is composed of a power adapter and an amplifier integrator
plug. This adapter does not have RCA type plugs wired in, so a
preamp adapter can be used if you want to reduce a speaker level
signal to line level. This allows a preamp signal to flow directly
through to the amplifier.
If the factory amplifier is to be bypassed or replaced, then the
another premium sound wiring harness will apply (70-5514). This
is composed of a power adapter, an amplifier integrator, and a
amplifier bypass harness as well. This by will give the most options.
First you can plug in the amplifier bypass harness and wire the
amplifier integrator with speaker level outputs and the signal
will flow from the radio, around the amplifier, and to the speakers.
Second you can cut the amplifier bypass harness in half and take
either preamp or speaker level signals and input them into a replacement
amplifier and use the other half to output the amplified signal
down the factory harness to the speakers. Currently I am unaware
of any adapters that will incorporate the factory equalizer into
and after market system. Below is a chart to help in your selection
of the proper harness assembly.
Radio Wiring Harness Guide
| Original System | No Amplifier | Use
Factory Amplifier | Bypass Factory Amplifier | | AM/FM
Radio | 70-1770 | N/A | N/A |
|---|
| AM/FM
Cassette | N/A | 70-5511 | 70-5514 |
|---|
| AM/FM
CD | N/A | 70-5511 | 70-5514 |
|---|
|
If the factory stereo is retained, and the amplifier is to be
replaced the then only the amplifier bypass harness is needed
(70-5513).
Note: The power lead to the factory amplifier is only 14 gauge
wire. This will not carry enough current to run a high power amplifier
effectively. You will need to run you own power wire for this
application. The output speaker wires are also only 16 gauge wire
and will also need to be upgraded as well.
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When replacing the speakers, which wire is
the positive lead?
Wiring color codes seem to change from year to year, but here
is what I have found:
Speaker Wiring Harness Schematic
| Position | Positive | Negative
| |
| Front Left | Blue w/t
Green Stripe | Blue |
|---|
| Front
Right | Blue w/t Black Stripe | Blue w/t Orange
Stripe |
|---|
| Rear Left | Green
w/t Yellow Stripe | Dark Green w/t Orange Stripe |
|---|
| Rear
Right | Blue w/t White Stripe | Green w/t White
Strip |
|---|
|
If these don't match your car, then a simple test will tell you
which terminal is the positive. Using a 1.5 volt battery, and
two test wires, touch the battery to the speaker. When looking
from the top of the speaker, if the cone rises when current is
applied. The positive connection will correspond to the positive
terminal of the battery.
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What are the wiring codes for the factory
amplifier?
Again, wiring color codes may change from year to year, but this
is the way they are decoded on the Metra amplifier bypass adapter
(70-5513).
Amplifier Wiring Harness Schematic
| Description | Factory Input Color
| Metra Wire Color | Factory Output Color | | Amplifier
Turn On | Light Green w/t White Stripe | N/A | N/A
|
|---|
| Ground | Black | N/A
| N/A |
|---|
| 12 Volt + | Light
Green w/t Red Stripe | N/A | N/A |
|---|
| Front
Left Positive | Blue w/t Green Stripe | White | Brown
|
|---|
| Front Left Negative | Blue
| White w/t Black Stripe | Light Blue w/t Black
Stripe |
|---|
| Front Right Positive | Blue
w/t Black Stripe | Gray | Light Green |
|---|
| Front
Right Negative | Blue w/t Red Stripe | Gray w/t
Black Stripe | Light Blue |
|---|
| Rear
Left Positive | Light Green | Green | Violet
w/t White Stripe |
|---|
| Rear Left Negative
| Green w/t Red Stripe | Green w/t Black Stripe
| White w/t Red Stripe |
|---|
| Rear
Right Positive | Dark Green w/t Yellow Stripe | Violet
| White |
|---|
| Rear Right Negative
| Dark Green w/t Blue Stripe | Violet w/t Black
Stripe | Yellow |
|---|
|
The input signal can be either line level, or speaker level depending
how you have it wired up front. DO NOT connect a speaker level
signal into the factory amplifier, it is only designed to for
line level input.
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| 
